Usually it’s down to the added time of encoding, network transmission and decoding vs the native experience on the PC. As an example, for my Quest 3 testing I was getting roughly 6ms encoding on the host PC, 7ms network latency, and then 13 ms decoding on the Quest 3. Adding it up, that’s 26ms, or basically a frame and a half of latency at the lowest to stream the remote play video to the device you’re playing on. Having your host PC connected via ethernet gives the best performance so it’s great you’ve done that. There could also be slight added input latency as well. They all are ridiculously fast processes but add up together.

Depending on the client doing the streaming and the video codec used, the efficiency can vary wildly too. Moonlight is one of the best ones out there thankfully but it’s impossible to eliminate the latency entirely.

Only if the current 2.4GHz or 5GHz band you’re using is congested. You usually see a jump from 2.4GHz to 5GHz as a TON of devices use 2.4GHz but less so for 5GHz; you also see a general improvement partially because the signal drops off at a much lower distance and therefore there’s less congestion in the area if you’re in an apartment building.

If you’re getting a solid signal with 5GHz, you won’t likely notice anything. Remote Play won’t be saturating the bandwidth you have available either way. Where you might see a big difference is if your current router is a low-end model and the WiFi 6E router is substantially better at allocating.

Keep in mind, WiFi 6 doesn’t mean 6GHz, it needs to be WiFi 6E. Standard WiFi 6 routers are still using 5GHz.

I’ve done a bunch of testing with the Quest 3 using Virtual Desktop to stream VR games and I’ve had no improvement between 5GHz and 6GHz, the network latency is extremely low for both.

Ideally yes, if it’s available.

This past summer I played Baldur’s Gate 1 and 2 and Planescape Torment. The Switch games don’t run via emulation and the reason I played on Switch was the controller UI that’s not available on the Steam releases. Sure, I could try and map the PC controls via SteamInput but it’s nowhere near as easy to use.

There are a lot of small things that emulation fails to handle well that make me avoid it, from texture, framerate and effects issues to bigger things like a complete absence of all online features; a big thing in all Pokemon games. Some games require multiple different graphics renderers to be selected to get past bugs, etc.

In a lot of games, emulation is a reasonable substitute but I’ve been far happier with the experience of playing Switch games on a modded Switch than on the Steam Deck.

I’m not saying it’s right to be so aggressive in response but a good portion of the hostility here is the fact that the answers to your questions have been posted 3789 times.

You have video reviews, independent reviews, thread after thread about comparisons and impressions, as well as a huge amount of issues that have been posted and talked about. Everything from buttons, dpad to screen and speakers, power, etc. Literally EVERY aspect has been well-covered.

If you don’t want to take the time to search yourself, others might not want to take the time to be patient with you.

It does come off as people being assholes in response to a simple question but it’s really tiresome to have post after post asking the same things about small issues and to them, it comes off as a lazy post.

Everyone here is volunteering their time. While I tend to just pass by things that bother me, many will jump all over it.

Yes. Switch emulation isn’t anywhere near 100% compatibility. It’s impressive that the Yuzu and Ryijinx teams have done what they have but if you care about playing any Switch game you want, the Switch is the way to go. Outside of the mainline Nintendo games, compatibility drops off significantly with emulation.

It definitely has a toggle in-game. It’s one of the very few games I keep HDR off because it’s never looked right and is horribly washed out, I find it’s much nicer with SDR and lowered brightness. Almost like it defaults to the wrong colour space with HDR turned on.

Look at it like an opportunity to learn a new language. Once your brain learns a new layout, you can go back and forth a lot more easily. I can’t tell you the last time I ever looked down at a button before pressing it though, so you might benefit from a bit of memorization rather than doing something permanent to the Deck.

It’s all about the EDID of the TV and what it reports it can do. Sometimes you can get around this with creating and forcing custom resolutions.

I’d have vomited about 500 meters into the trip, maybe a couple km if I was reeeeally lucky.

I don’t mind. I’ll still pull out a PSP if I want to, the age and model doesn’t detract from the enjoyment. Is the OLED better? Sure. You’ll never stay with the best version of anything unless you’re constantly prepared to be buying, and it doesn’t detract from the experience THAT much. If it was good enough before, the OLED didn’t change it.

Nah. I like the pixel density and contrast of a good OLED display. AR is neat and not without its uses but it doesn’t look anywhere as sharp. If size is all that matters to you, go right ahead but a lot of people have other qualities they care about.