Sadly an online game I want to get back into CAN’T really run on Proton (it technically can but the devs consider Proton no different then cheating programs and so the game treats you like a bot in that you have to complete a “prove you’re a human” captcha after EVERY dungeon run).
Eh, pretty much every Microshit game published on Steam requires an account (and likely the worthless store). IF I ever deign to purchase the games dirt cheap, I’ll just “pirate” the cracked copies to avoid a worthless account as I don’t give the SMALLEST fuck about any kind of multiplayer, I shouldn’t be forced to create an account just play a game OFFLINE (which is why I’ve NEVER purchased any games that require an external launcher and/or account)
Well, I haven’t bought any games yet that require a Microshit account to play SOLELY offline.
That’s exactly the version I want of Windows 10, no Cortana, no BitLocker, no OneDrive, no Microsoft store, no Xbox app, no ads, ability to pause Windows update til Microshit fixes the broken updates they force Home and Pro users to beta test.
I’d love a shell that was half life themed rather then having to get a skin decal (which I can’t use as I don’t have a damn hairdryer).
The M.2 dock, you get DRASTICALLY reduced speeds (Gen 4 m.2 NVMe SSD’s have read speeds around 7,000MB/sec while the M.2 dock tops out at 900MB/sec).
You need to check out protondb to make sure games will run correctly. A Korean MMO I want to get back into doesn’t really run on Steam since the devs lump Proton in with “Third-party programs” used to cheat and therefore will do nothing to make the game playable (if you do get the game to run it will treat you as a bot and force you complete a “price you are a human” captcha at the end of EVERY single dungeon run).
You need to check out protondb to make sure games will run correctly. A Korean MMO I want to get back into doesn’t really run on Steam since the devs lump Proton in with “Third-party programs” used to cheat and therefore will do nothing to make the game playable (if you do get the game to run it will treat you as a bot and force you complete a “price you are a human” captcha at the end of EVERY single dungeon run).
What needed to be done with Steam Boxes is limit the number of versions to just 3: Entry lvl, Mid-tier and Top-end. And SteamOS wasn’t quite ready to go against Microshit at the time.
So which is it? Some people link the Western Digital 2Tb 2230 as SN770M while others link it as the SN740.
Been without a PC for 2 years (Really hoping to purchase a 512GB SD OLED along with all the necessary accessories before Black Friday), what is the difference between a Recovery OS image and an installation image (and do we need separate flash drives or can both be put on the same drive)?
Valve completely redesigned the Steam Deck from the ground up with the OLED model (read an article that some things they with the LCD Steam Deck were cost-cutting cause they didn’t know if it would be successful).
There is no 2TB+, 2TB is the theoretical limit of the 2230 size (barring any major advanced in storage capacity I guess).
I don’t want the rims and/or emulators bogging down my all 400+ game Steam Library. Isn’t it possible to just use RetroArch and the few other standalone emulators in desktop mode?
Watching various YouTubers testing their OLED review units and comparing to the LCD version, you can get around an HOUR of extra battery life minimum by setting the FPS to like 40 and adjusting the TPD to the correct setting. Some 2D games you can get away with less then 10W and still get good frame-rates. Look up videos on YouTube that are doing comparisons between the LCD and OLED units as well as performance at different settings.
Hard to find a dock that has enough USB ports (need 4 for mouse, keyboard, controller and external SSD) but hard to tell how many USB-A and USB-C I need since a few of the items I want don’t state which USB port they use.