Call me crazy but the blue sub pixel on the BOE panel looks larger than the red and green sub pixels. This should be good for longevity since you won’t have to drive the blue as hard, and blue sub pixels seem to be the most likely to burn out or limit the useful life of a panel.
Driving them less hard/bright = longer lifetimes
Wait…you’re going to return it so you don’t have to potentially deal with the hassle of returning it?
Did that sound better in your head?
Not sure? I’ve never seen that error. I’ve had ME:LE since before the EA app came out. I got it through the Origin app.
Supports HDR too. It’s a great performer on the Deck.
Uh, rule 5 guys.
Not too worried. It’s always the people with issues that are the loudest for any of these things. Every time I start to worry about it a bit, I take a step back and remember that pattern always holds true in online communities.
I’ve never used it myself but ShareDeck seems like exactly what you’re looking for no?
As far as getting the most of the trackpads you will pick it up over time but in the meantime there are community configurations that you can download and try out. Check the ones with a Steam Deck controller glyph and highly upvoted and try them out.
That’s the store I got mine from and I spent a fair bit more (back in May). They’re legit.
Hmm. Not sure what to tell you. I’m using a Unifi UAP-nanoHD (Wifi 5) and getting ~50-60MB/s on a Steam Deck LCD. N.B. This is on an external download.
Don’t compare to a LAN transfer from one of your other PCs. For me at least Steam LAN transfers top out at 30MB/s despite having a gigabit LAN network. I actually disabled client to client transfers because they are significantly slower than downloading from the internet (gigabit internet).
You need a 2230 sized PCI-E 3.0 (or better, the spec is backwards compatible) SSD.
No, though I rarely have to clean it because I never purposely touch the screen.
The Steam Deck shines as a handheld. It’s got the best battery life of all the current handhelds out there right now. However, if you plan to play plugged in or docked the majority of the time I think you might be better served by a Lenovo Legion Go. The software apparently sucks but you can largely sidestep that with a combination of third party utilities.
The reason why I would recommend the Legion is because when plugged in it has a higher performance ceiling. The minute you’re portable though, my recommendation goes to the Steam Deck. Same thing goes if you have a limited tolerance for jank…then the Steam Deck wins. Windows isn’t great on small touchscreens.
If you’re intent on using either as a desktop I can’t really say one is better than the other. I just got my GPU back from RMA on my gaming rig and I used my Steam Deck docked as my PC for the entire time and it was fine. I’m comfortable with Linux but even so, you’re not really messing with the guts of Linux on a Steam Deck…almost everything is flatpaks so getting into the nitty gritty isn’t needed. There’s no printer support in the default SteamOS image though…if that matters.
They existed. They were just made by small companies at very high prices. GPD has been around for a few years now for example, having launched the GPD Win in 2016. If you’d been shopping them you’d know that these devices have existed for at least a few years now.
It’s just that the Steam Deck came out and massively dropped the floor on the price of these devices so that they’ve now become much more popular with the masses. The reason I was willing to get the first gen Steam Deck was precisely because I’d been shopping these computers and knew exactly how good a deal the Steam Deck was. It was half the price of anything even close to it in performance or specs, and that was for the top end model.
No offence to the people that think a Steam Deck is overpriced but they have no idea what the market for these things was before the Steam Deck existed.
How is Hades not on your list? 60FPS on 5W TDP. Lasts for hours.
I don’t get why you would want to bother? It’s not like the Steam Deck can push those framerates so what’s the point? Same deal with the Ally…what’s the point?
I get overclocking the SOC for more performance. That’s something you can actually use.
Took me a while to warm up to the action button but now I love it. Got it hooked up to a shortcut script and it’s way more versatile than the old slider without losing any of the functionality.
I’ll admit it doesn’t feel that much faster than my 11. I didn’t really feel like the processor on the old phone was holding me back but the cameras are a nice improvement.
I plan to take the 2TB SSD out of my SD and move it to the OLED SD then put the original SSD back in the LCD before giving it to my brother in law. No setup needed.
Yeah. Self tapping screws into plastic bosses are fine for a consumer electronics device where you don’t expect people to open it up but if it’s a device where you can reasonably expect people to open it up to service it (like say, a computer) you really should use machine screws into metal bosses.
Oh man, you need to go back to the drawing board on this one.
I know it’s been touched on but your battery demands are crazy. 25W (assuming TDP because a current Steam Deck can already hit 25W total draw) = 25W for the chip plus ~8W for the SSD, wireless, speakers, chipset and display (and that’s being generous) = 33W total draw minimum.
33W for 3.5hrs = 115Wh. The maximum battery size you’re allowed to take on an airplane is 99Wh so now you have a Steam Deck you’re not allowed to fly with. Bzzzt! Try again!
Yeah, not enough is made of how much quieter it is. My LCD had the Huaying fan and I didn’t think it was loud but the OLED is even quieter.