It needs to be implemented per-game because of quantization. See, tonemapping operators are reversible, meaning you can feed in a tonemapped image into the inverse tonemapper and get an exact duplicate of the non-tonemapped HDR image. Well…you can provided it hasn’t been 8bit quantization. If it has then there are only 255 possible values, because it throws away everything in between as part of the process, meaning that even once you do the inverse tonemap there still only 255 possible values, only now there is a vast gulf of possible brightness between 254 and 255. As an example, maybe 254 is 300 nits, and 255 is 3000nits. Well that’s going to be noticeable, even more noticeable than the banding when just using SDR.

In order to implement HDR properly it needs to be implemented before quantization.

It’s called mura, and it’s inherent to OLED technology (for those who don’t know the O in OLED stands for organic, perfect panels are basically impossible).

The CPU governor is what chooses the frequency, not the game.

Me because I have DeckHD. Though it is imperfect there is no going back for me and no equivalent for OLED.

Why do you steer with your hip?

Do you have to look at the buttons on your switch to work out which one to press? Or do you just know that A is on the right? If you don’t have to look what the buttons say on them is not important, just let your Nintendo muscle memory kick in.

The games are all already at the new file path. They are the same location, just different paths to it.

If you install the screen it will be fine. You install the BIOS after the screen, not before.

You don’t.

You absolutely can. You will lose the touch functionality, but some people don’t use it anyway.

Ethernet. Either use the built in Steam transfer function, or set up a SMB server on your PC for your Deck to access and copy files from.

Megabits go brrrrr

I have one. It’s gorgeous. For emulation, older games, and those that support FSR2, it’s well worth it. New AAA titles struggle at 1200p…but that was already true of 800p so it’s not like it’s much different. Even so you can run something like Cyberpunk 2077 at 1600x900 with FSR2 Performance and get comparable performance to FSR2 Quality @ 1280x800, only it’s 16:9 and looks far better.

It’s not perfect, but for those with the technical skills to do the swap in the first place it’s a decent upgrade. People also vastly overestimated the BIOS updating issue. I’ve updated SteamOS no less than 4 times (3.5.1 -> 3.5.5) since installing DeckHD and not a single update has overwritten the BIOS. It will happen eventually, I’m sure, but it’s a far cry from the “every update” that people parroted.

It’s pretty standard. I don’t work for FEDEX (or live in the US) and we seal our trucks with plastic ties. It’s not really there to stop people getting in, it’s there so that we can be sure nobody has once the truck makes it to its destination. If the seal is intact there is no way to open the truck, in order to open the truck you have to destroy the seal, and each seal has a unique identifier that will be on the paperwork.

If the seal is broken or doesn’t match we decline the delivery because we know the truck has been opened between the depot and us.

Pahahaha…

Now I’m done laughing at you, I will help. You need to reimage your Deck. And next time don’t delete folders if you don’t know what they are.

You don’t need thermal paste, but yes, you’ll need a suction cup, adhesive (if it doesn’t come with it), and a heat gun / hair dryer, as well as something to cut the adhesive. I recommend playing cards as they are less likely to cause any damage than a pry tool.

Personally I wouldn’t want to pull it without at least removing the analog sticks. As Linus discovered, it can get…melty…

You may / may not be able to physically fit the screen into the midplate, you will not be able to connect it as the connector is different, and even if you could it wouldn’t work because the OG Deck was designed very specifically with LCDs in mind.

No thanks.

Nope. I’d rather stick with my DeckHD modded Deck. I’ve done far too much work on it to just replace it at a whim…and I’d rather have an LCD anyway. OLED isn’t a great fit for anything that requires static images on screen…like in game HUDs.