Map the L4 and R4 buttons (top back paddle buttons) to mimic or replace the L1 and R1 buttons. This way it’s a more comfortable grip because you don’t have to position your hold for reaching upward.
Then inherently the trackpads are more comfortable and accessible.
I will usually then map the regular L1 and R1 numbers to something like Screenshot. Basically things I’d like to use occasionally but not all the time.
Well the stutter in emulation is usually because of the shader cache building. So the more you play it and encounter objects, the smoother it plays.
In SteamOS 3.5 the SMT bug was fixed. So it is no longer necessary to toggle it.
Solution was posted here. Essentially boot into the BiOS and flip the toggle from Enabled to Disabled.
The deck is extremely prone to coming apart when Impacted.
Sort of feels like it’s because they want it to be easy for folks to open and get at the inside. Probably otherwise it would be hell to pry open the case.
Deals dot gg (type the . in browser) keeps pretty good track of sales across various official and unofficial sites.
I think the OS 3.5.5 display options gives you enough to get rich colors, but not so much that you’re able to end up with a way oversaturated image.
Exactly how high did you have your Vibrant Deck settings at? The OS 3.5.5 was able to reproduce my Vibrant Deck 130 setting pretty well.
Generally if you doing a copy/clone or whatever it will replace whatever was there before.
I used CloneZilla for when I did backups and restores. It runs off a USB thumb drive. Takes pretty long; longer than it seems copying that amount of data should take, but it works and has worked well for me.
Done it a couple times now. Once I get my Steam Deck setup well initially, I make a snapshot of it with CloneZilla I can restore to.
Yes, they changed the default color profile to a more accurate emulated sRGB one.
Think of it like the display finally getting calibrated. It was always there and capable of it, but the color profile before was really bad.
Pretty sure as with most computers there is a display off/dim timer, which is separate from the sleep timer.
Set the dim to 10-15min, and the sleep to never.
View the Steam Properties for a game, and in the tab that says Compatibility, check the box that says Force Compatibility and select Proton Experimental.
Did you reset it to Factory settings before setting it up for yourself?
The amount of inputs and combinations you can map using the trackpads and other buttons on the Steam Deck with Steam Input dwarfs many of the other competitors.
I love that you can play games like this and other RTS games on Steam Deck n
Under a week from when people paid full price? Likely not. That would be seen as a huge bad faith move. Valve probably wouldn’t for that reason.
Yes, you can just place your old SSD into the new one. Just check out some of the newer review or tear down vids.
The SDD is fairly accessible; you only have to remove one component which is the heat shield on the inside to access the place where it is located.
So mainly 2-3 sets of unscrewing.
I saw someone post a video of BG3 running on the new update earlier today and it was running pretty good.
😂
Not really. Even if they only make it until Christmas, it is still a limited edition.
They never said or gave a number on what that limit was for how many they will or intend to make.
An LE just means it’s not part of the permanent line up. Which is perfectly fine, and true.
For the people who thought they could make bank on it, so sad boohoo.
But hopefully they learned their lesson, and are less inclined to try to do that in the future. I’m sure there are quite a few who are stuck with inventory they attempted to hoard that now has to sell at a loss; because no one wants a new deck that doesn’t come with a warranty when it’s readily available on Valve’s site (at least I think the warranty is not transferable).
Which in the long run is a good thing for all Steam Deck buyers in the future.
You may want to ensure you are actually saving the VRAM change. It should be reflecting in the BiOS after you save it, and in the system settings in gaming mode.
So after you check or check the BiOS, look in the gaming mode settings right after to verify on the first boot up.
Steam and “…” buttons to be raised as much as the trackpads or at least a tad more than current so it’s easier to find by feel instead of looking or doing the feel for trackpad edge trick.
USB Port at the bottom so it’s able to be truly docked without having yo still manually connect a cable.
Larger OLED but only within the current form factor. So less or flush bezel. I don’t want the form-factor of the Steam deck to change and make all the accessories obsolete.
USB 4 or something.
LTE/Cellular slot so you can use internet without needing to hotspot or connect to WiFi.
Just look online to see the difference between OLED and LCD brightness on a handheld, like Nintendo Switch or even some of the recent reviews in the last couple days and decide FOR YOURSELF what it’s worth TO YOU.
Only one you. Other people can’t tell you how to feel. Or shouldn’t 🙄.
I have a long USB extension I use when playing on my external display so that the Steam Deck is my controller.
(I also cannot go back to playing without access to the dual trackpads)
Which is part of the reason I prefer and always recommend USB-C hubs over Docks. Docks kinda tie your Deck to your desk/display proximity-wise.
You could technically use the extension on the dock’s connector too. But then you just paid “dock” prices for nothing.