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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: October 31st, 2023

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  • Very good point, and clearly graphics aren’t the priority for some, as the Switch can’t even keep up with the Deck, but people play it on their TV all the time. Taking one’s entire PC library and turning it into a console experience isn’t bad either, it’s an instant game library for many.

    I’ve essentially sworn off consoles, I’ll attach my Deck and other devices to a TV instead.





  • I own both a Deck OLED and an Ally. They’re both good devices, but with different focuses and different advantages/disadvantages.

    The Ally runs Windows…which some people want. It’s also got great performance, will eat AAA games for breakfast, and has a very nice 120hz VRR screen. However, you don’t want to go very far from a battery pack or power outlet, because you’ll be lucky to get 2 hours of battery playing those AAA titles.

    The OLED Deck, on the other hand, does not run Windows, so certain games that rely on certain DRM or Anti-cheat software won’t even work. Windows drivers aren’t ready for the Deck yet. The GPU is weaker than the Ally, because the Deck focuses on battery life, which is much better. Likewise the screen is lower resolution…but it’s OLED, which makes it very nice, but in different ways than the Ally’s screen. Which is better is a metter of opinion.

    The OLED Deck does not have a noticable performance increase over the LCD Deck. The screen is better, and battery life is better. And if you open your Deck up a lot, the screws are much better. :)





  • npaladin2000@alien.topBtoSteam DeckOLED burn in potential
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    1 year ago

    You can set the screen to dim after a certain period, that’ll help. Also, if you have an HDMI dock/dongle, as soon as it detects an HDMI cable it’ll shut off the internal screen (the external TV or monitor does NOT have to be on).

    Likely it won’t be much of an issue long term but if you’re really worried about it, these measures will help.




  • I love the orange (it’s more orange than red) highlights on the Limited Edition. And the orange screws are easier to find when dropped, which is a nice accidental bonus. Another accidental bonus that I like but some don’t: the top LED is visible from the front through the transparent case. The case art is a nice little thing too (and it’s definitely a little thing, not a big thing). I would go for the Limited, it’s worth the extra $30. And I don’t have any dead pixels on mine.




  • Bait for clicks. The LCD display has improved with the new color settings but the OLED model is still a drastic improvement in many ways, including battery life, viewing angles, and screen size. The only reason to get the LCD model right now is price. That $400 mark is hard to beat, but I think when they run out of LCD PCBs and screens we’ll see an OLED model at the $400 price point.