It’s velcro into the outer shell.

Generally that’s up to them. I don’t think you’ll get a definitive answer. If there’s a surplus on new in box units and they’re short on refurbs you’d probly get a new unit. If they’ve got plenty of refurbs ready to go that’s probably what you’ll get. You’re not likely to get back your specific deck as it’s faster/easier to toss yours in a “fix” pile and ship out a unit ready to go.

I’ve been going back and forth. My dead sub pixel isn’t dead center and isn’t noticeable during gaming unless I’m looking for it and honestly I play docked most the time.

My worry / paranoia is they’ll replace the panels with Samsung ones, which I don’t want. The BOE panel is wonderful minus the pixel. I figure I’ll hold off until people start reporting on their rma replacements. Everything else about my LE is great.

The local transfers are pretty meh imo. Not sure why, guessing something valve needs to fix/work on.

If your interactions with them were as vague as this post I’m not surprised you’re getting nowhere.

Most vendors hold onto additional new stock for rma/warranty claims.

No sense in streaming games it can handle, it’ll just consume 10x the power for the same performance. However on heavier games sure. My D4 playtime has pretty much exclusively been on my deck since release and 90% of that streamed from another pc in my basement.

Wattage won’t be an issue, but make sure it’s a decent inverter, some of them can put out some pretty dirty power.

Is there any reason you’re using an inverter? Going from DC to AC back to DC isn’t the most straight forward approach.

Why not just use a dock?

As for being possible it should be if you have an android TV or something that supports steam link.

Why not just a hdmi plug? I’ve got a hdmi dummy plug and it supports pretty much everything. I don’t think it explicitly has 90hz, but has 60/120/240. I just chose 120 and cap fps at 90 in game, or you can probably do it globally as well.

/r/windowsondeck

Should be fine.

That was the haptics making that noise I believe. But yeah seems to be gone.

60fps and cool isn’t going to happen, hell a solid 60 isn’t likely to happen. If you’ve got a gaming pc just stream it from there when you’re home. 90 fps D4 on the deck is fun 😁.

That looks to likely be faulty hardware, so yeah rma is the route to go.

Stream the games from a more powerful machine 😉

Try different channels and channel widths on your router/AP. You can also try different security types.

Tried putting it into airplane mode and then putting it to sleep? (possibly something on the network is sending wake on lan packets, no idea if sd responds to those but worth a shot)

You can just put the SD card into the new deck.

Got anything Bluetooth connected?

My bt keyboard will keep mine awake if I don’t turn it off first.