Yes, the only caveat to use it as a Linux PC is that it’s using an immutable distribution.
That means that if the software you want to install exists as a flatpak then it’s great, otherwise you’ll need to tweak a little bit. You’ll have to turn your filesystem read/write and have apps installed this way be wiped at each SteamOS update.
First thing to do is to check the manufacturer of your screen, and RMA if it’s not the one you want!
You don’t need to be proficient at all to play Steam games on gaming mode. It just works like a console for that. It’s much easier to use than a Windows handheld (which is probably what you had before).
If you want to play non-Steam games or emulators you’ll have to do some learning, but you really don’t have to.
Starting KDE is quick, starting Steam is slow.
If you can’t think of a reason to buy one then don’t.
I think it is, but it’s a personal decision.
Only the most expensive models come with those. For LCD it was the 512 but for OLED it’s the 1To.
To be fair, the worse performance is in Act 3 which is well past the 2 hours mark. So it’s worth asking.
> Also is there anything stopping someone from doing a screen swap between the LE and the 512gb OLED aside aside from money?
The fact that the BOE is just as good as Samsung?
Really I don’t understand why people suddenly start to care about the brand of the screen that is in their device.
My problem is that I occasionally play Switch games, and PC games suppose the XBOX layout so I often get confused between A and B, X and Y.
You’re all very lucky because I gave up playing wireless with my deck.
Now it’s all wired.
The problem is that most games won’t match the glyphs, so you’ll have ABXY on the screen and symbols on your controller.
It works great, except for wireless controllers. You can use them but expect a lot of disconnections, especially if you use multiple controllers at the same time.
Note that it’s for the LED, the OLED supposedly has better bluetooth because it has a dedicated chip. But other than that you’d be paying more than a LCD despite not benefiting from its biggest improvements (screen and battery life).
Also the 8bit ultimate Bluetooth the button layout is Nintendo and not Xbox (A and B are switched)
They sell replacement buttons that are easy to switch
XBOX Cloud, it’s free to play Fortnite.
Yes the 512 LCD was the premium, however the 512 OLED is the “cheapo” version!
Get an OLED unless you’re really tight on your finances. The screen and battery make a big difference.
Because some people wanted a limited edition, would have preferred a glossy screen but need to be reassured about their purchase.
Sorry I’m not sure I understand correctly.
30fps at 90Hz mean you’ll have the same frame twice, right? The game renders a frame, it gets displayed 3 times, it renders the next, displayed 3 times also…
How can that impact input lag? The game is only going to take your input in your account in the newly rendered frame, so every 33ms?