I know for the original charger with the shorter cable people made 3d printable holders for it to fit more snugly, but I don’t know if those would work for the OLED charger with its longer cord.
You might need to get a third party case with an internal storage compartment - eg the jsaux case.
Burn in with modern OLED screens tends to take months, so I wouldn’t worry too much about just downloads.
I don’t. The Deck’s sleep mode works wonderfully in my experience - I’ve never once had a game crash. I’ve had online games kick me back to the menu when they lose connection, of course, and I’ve had Elden Ring give me weird audio crackles once when I woke it, but beyond that, sleep is perfect.
I was leery of sleep due to how Windows handles sleep, but the Deck works a lot better in this regard.
I purchased madden 23 on the steam store on my deck and can not get it to play at all.
Okay. Since you bought it on Steam, you shouldn’t need to use things like Heroic, Lutris, adding EA app as a non-steam game, etc. Steam *should* be handling all of this stuff for you automatically. Heroic and Lutris are for non-steam games. (Well, Lutris can also handle steam games too.)
So what is specifically happening when you go to play after you downloaded it from Steam? Is it just loading for a bit then closing? Is it loading but giving you a blue-black box instead of a game? Is it giving you a “compatibility tool failed” message?
The secret of the verification/compatibility system is that not compatible usually only matters if the reason it’s not compatible is anticheat related. Otherwise “not compatible” is generally “valve hasn’t gotten around to testing it yet.”
Sometimes it’s “game can’t be configured to run well on Deck”, but even that isn’t always true, eg Jedi Survivor and arguably Starfield.
Maybe try looking into emulating various nintendo games designed for that age group? Pokemon, Mario, Kirby, maybe BOTW, etc?
Nobody but Valve knows. Maybe not even them, since refurb stock depends on people sending their LCD Decks home.
For the virtual rewards: I’m not sure. At first, no, but Valve support said they were working on it. I haven’t heard much since. The steam points come because you spend hundreds of dollars on steam, so you’ll get those no matter whether you buy refurb or no.
The system-wide FSR is FSR1. FSR2 has to be implemented on a per game basis by the devs.
FSR3 is half and half. I think there’s a systemwide implementation of it (that isn’t available on either SteamOS or Windows AFAIK), and there’s also a per-game implementation of it (that isn’t available on SteamOS yet, but does work on Deck hardware running windows).
Okay, cool. In that case, I’d try Lutris. Like I said, I’ve encountered some games that run better under Lutris (or Bottles) than under Heroic.
Note that if the game you’re trying to install is Fortnite in particular, it won’t work without running Windows due to anticheat.
I don’t use Remote Play itself much, but I use Sunshine + Moonlight more, because it seems more performant on my wifi setup.
The LCD is still going to be produced, so they’ll almost certainly continue to do this, yes.
whenever I try to run the .exe file as told to do by the instructions
These instructions are for Windows machines, probably. The Deck runs SteamOS. SteamOS doesn’t actually read .exe files. It needs to use proton to understand them.
So you’ve got a few options around this.
Option 1: You add the mod’s exe as a “non-steam game” and then you set a proton version and its compatdata path to the game’s compatdata folder via the compatdata path launch option from its shortcut -
STEAM_COMPAT_DATA_PATH="/path/to/your/prefix/" %command%
Replacing /path/to/your/prefix with Dark Souls 3’s compatdata path. Assuming you bought the steam version, it should be
/home/deck/.local/share/Steam/steamapps/compatdata/374320
Or somewhere near there. I don’t own DS3 so I can’t check.
Alternatively, you could use protontricks/steam tinker launch to run your mod exe within the game’s proton prefix without messing with this. Probably easier that way.
My usual solution when Heroic doesn’t work is to try Lutris. It’s more complicated, but I’ve had games that don’t work on Heroic work on Lutris.
Just to be clear though, you aren’t installing these games to an SD card without using Flatseal to give Heroic/Lutris/etc read-write permissions for the SD card, right?
But Ally is looking nice as well with all the support Asus is providing.
Has ASUS actually provided any sort of fix for the melty SD card issue? They acknowledged it was an issue months ago, but I haven’t heard anything about actually fixing this gigantic, immense flaw.
Just unlucky fam. Chicory (aka the actual manufacturer of the charger) is a good brand.
Fortunately you can use any usb-C PD charger that puts out at least 45w from one port. (Specifically you want 15v at 3a, which works out to 45w.) Make sure you use a cord rated for that wattage or more too. I like GaN chargers.
Valve themselves don’t, but literally any external SSD (either a normal external SSD or an SSD in an enclosure) will do what you want. You’ll need a dock or hub with passthrough charging if you want to do that plugged in though.
Have you checked to make sure your USB drive isn’t set to read only mode? I know some drives have physical lock switches to set this, and you can set all USB drives to read only in the software.
Though, honestly, I don’t bother with Emudeck’s file transfer system, I just move it all over manually. It’s super easy. Roms go in the emulation -> roms -> folder, bioses go in the emulation -> bios.
I haven’t played GTA5 but RDR2 also uses the R* launcher and I have played that, so here’s how it works:
You download and hit play. Steam will then proceed to install the R* launcher and you’ll need to put in your R* account login info, then you’re off stealing cars.
The color might be a form of HDR visualization if you’ve got an OLED Deck. Try turning that setting off from the Deck’s display menu if you do.